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I decided to make a quick joystick tutorial for you guys and anyone who could find it helpful I did this because i was trying to help a friend to set the joystick but there
was a retard on the server killing us and fucking around so, here everyone can read it nicely.
Note the this tutorial was mainly focused for the Logitech Extreme 3D Pro which i have, but maybe it could be useful for other joysticks as well, i hope so.
Logitech Extreme 3D Pro USB Joystick
It's an extremely confortable joystick with plenty of buttons and perfect for flying in BF2. However, it's still a cheap joystick, but a good cheap one.
If you got $200 - $250 bucks to spend on a joystick then go for the Thrustmaster HOTAS Cougar, the best joystick in the whole world, for real.
Important note: DO NOT, i repeat, DO NOT install the software that comes with the Extreme 3D Pro, it sucks big time and won't let you re-calibrate your joystick.
Use windows default driver and utility which works like a charm (Windows XP and up).
Step 1: Joystick Hardware Setup and Calibration
Now to the basic. Plug your Extreme 3D Pro and let windows detect it, after it's finished then go to control panel and double-click on Game Controllers:
Then you should see the Extreme 3D Pro listed on the devices:
Click on it and then click on the 'Properties' option below in the same screen and it will take you to the following properties screen :
Click on the 'Settings' tab, there you will see the Calibrate option, click on it:
Nice, you just started the windows joystick calibration utility, follow the steps carefully:
The next screen will ask you to leave the joystick centered, make sure it is REALLY centered, that's why some ppl claims it moves itself alone,
lack of good calibration and centering. Leave it centered and press a button on the joystick or click on next:
Next is the main joystick calibration screen. First of all make sure you check the box where says 'Display Raw Data' which will help you to
determine if the axis are in the proper position and reach all the extents and range of movement way more accurately.
Move the stick all thru the four corners from 0 to 1023 and after you're finished make sure it stays at 512 - 512 on the raw display (or 508 - 508).
Then after you leave it properly centered, press a button on the joystick or click on next:
Now the next screen will re-check the center, leave the handle centered and click on next:
Then next screen will calibrate the joystick Slider (thrust, accelerator). Just move the slider all up and down from 0 to 100%, when finished
press a button or click on next:
Next comes the Z Rotation calibration (the Rudder control where you can spin the stick left and right), rotate it from 0 to 256 all the way left and right.
When you are finished make sure it stays centered at 50% (128 on raw data) and press a button on joystick or click on next:
Next screen completes the calibration process and saves the calibration info, click on Finish to save your calibration!
And we are done with the first step, setting and calibration of the joystick. Now:
Step 2: Battlefield 2 Joystick Configuration Setup
Now our hardware is configured properly on the system, it's time to do the same with BF2 control settings.
Log in to your Battlefield 2 account and go to Options / Controls. There you will find your keyboard configuration.
There are 5 different tabs:
*Common Controls
*Land Vehicle
*Aircraft
*Helicopter
*Boat
We will just work with Common Controls and Aircraft for now. (I still need to get the grip with the helicopter and joystick :? )
First, on Common Controls it will be VERY helpful to set the following ALTERNATE KEYS (SECONDARY) as i highlighted in red:
Set Push to Talk, Vote Yes, Vote No and Scoreboard to 4 of the lower left joystick buttons. Sadly Battlefield 2 kaymaps are different from the example
picture i posted on the top. Here's an crappy but easy way to point these four keys (don't laugh at me, i did it in less than 1 minute lol):
Now to the Aircraft settings.
Notice that i marked some in red and some in blue. First the reds. It shows the proper button configuration. That's how it should be set properly.
Now the blue markings are toward AXIS. Now here's an important thing to know because lots of ppl had hard times and still have trying to figure
out why their joystick can't be properly set as they would want. When setting the axis always remember to set ONLY THE LEFT AND DOWN AXIS.
When you set the left, it automatically sets the right. When you set the down axis it automatically sets the up axis too. If you follow that rule, you will
set your joystick with no problems, this also fixes the problem where ppl pulls back and plane goes down and viceversa.
So, you only need to set DECELERATE (moving the slider down), STEER LEFT (rotating the rudder to the left), PITCH BACK (pulling the stick back down)
and finally ROLL LEFT (pulling the stick to the left).
Now, a more explicit picture of how should the stick buttons should be set:
One last note: During calibration, ALL of the axis must be pushed to their limits, from the stick axis to the slider and rudder axis.
Otherwise you will suffer from not being able to fully move to a side or have all the acceleration/deceleration degree. And if your joystick is really old (long time in your hands) you should consider reading over the internet about how to open it and clean the 4 potentiometers which gets really dirt, and dust is electricity-conductive so it leads to false contacts. There's a trick floating around about using 3-in-1 oil to clean them, but try researching about it. If i get the time i will update the post with that information.
**UPDATE**
How to bind an 'Enemy Spotted' button (ALL CREDIT FOR THIS TO MAD AD FROM BF2S.COM FORUMS)
Hi again everyone, discovered something else that might be useful to some of you- your very own spotted key (or joy button, controller ect- as long as its a proper key that bf2 recognises).
Some already know we can bind 2 different things to a single key, anyone thats read the 26 page 'anatomy of controls.con' thread on planetbattlefield knows that is old news however i've found you can bind your ok button to the same key as your radio button and it works as a spotted button. Theres no macros involved, no hacks, nothing naughty at all - just 2 keys bound to the same button. Wanna know how? Read on.
There are a few ways of doing this, those of you that know your controls.con file backwards can just type in the lines with the right keys, however I'm going to describe it in a way that (hopefully) you all can follow simply.
1) Do not open your controls.con file yet. Fire up bf2 and click thru to the options/controls page.
2) On the main page, set the key you want to make your button as your SECONDARY Main Radio key. Save and totally quit bf2.
3) Open the controls.con file linked with your username (with notepad) and use search to find the 2 lines with c_GIRadioComm in them.
4) Highlight the whole of the second line ONLY and press copy.
5) Open the search again and this time search for the line with c_GIOk in it, theres usually only one.
6) Immediately below the c_GIOk line, make a space and paste in the line you copied from step 4.
7) Lastly, In that line you just pasted in, find the word c_GIRadioComm and change that to read c_GIOk instead.
8) Save. Done, fire up and go test it!!
See, that was easy wasnt it?
Notes:
BACK UP YOUR CONTROLS.CON FILE before editing. If you stuff something up at least you can copy it back and try again.
#2. You must have a different key set for your primary Main Radio (duh). If you say you have no key set then why not?!! You need it to tell your team stuff.
#3. Controls.con is in My DocumentsBattlefield 2Profiles000n, with n being the number of your main profile. If your not sure what number to use, open up profile.con and check that it has the correct name you game with.
#5. Having 2 lines with c_GIOk would be strange but if you have set something, youll have to paste over the second line if you still want to go ahead.
I think thats about it- as I said you can set it up a few ways, its just 2 keys bound to the same key, however I hope ive explained how anyone can have one. If someones posted this before im sorry, but ive not see it in the search anywhere.
Enjoy Spotting!
Original post: http://forums.bf2s.com/viewtopic.php?pid=799612
Well i think this is it for now, i spent a shitload of time doing this, lol. Any questions and feedback, feel free to post!
Edit: More extra info, directly from Logitech:
Detailed Description
Why is my joystick jumpy or erratic in my game?
Answer

Logitech Extreme 3d Pro Joystick Software

Cause
Various things can cause your gaming device to act erratically. These include problems with DirectX, calibration entries in the Windows Registry and game issues.
Solution
Please make sure you are running DirectX 9.x or higher. DirectX 9.x can be downloaded from the Microsoft website (http://www.microsoft.com/directx/homeus … efault.asp). If you are unsure about what version of DirectX you are using, click Start->Search and choose All files and folders. (If you are using an older operating system, click Start->Find->Files or folders). In the name field, type DirectX. When it finds the DirectX folder, open it and find a file named DXDIAG. When the Direct X Diagnostic screen appears, look for the Direct X Version Number.
If the calibration issue persists, please download and run the Logitech WingMan Clear Calibration (http://www.logitech.com/index.cfm/downl … areid=5484) (LWS_CLRC.EXE). The WingMan Clear Calibration Utility was developed by Logitech to resolve calibration problems with Logitech digital gaming devices. NOTE: This utility strips all calibration information in the Windows Registry for all gaming devices. This includes any non-Logitech gaming devices that have been installed.
The infamous WD-40 trick:
Joystick works erratically, or movement acts 'noisy':
If you have an old 2D analog gameport style joystick that starts acting really 'funky' or 'jumpy' it might have 'dirty pots'. Most old 2D analog gameport style joysticks usually have 4 potentiometers inside of them . 'Potentiometers' are electronic components about the size of a screw-on soda cap (also so called 'pots' by Electronic Technicians). These 'pots' can 'get dirty' (internally oxidize) and can cause jumpy movement in games even thought 'It used to work ok'. If your old joystick has not been used in a long time, this can quite possibly happen. To fix this, usually, simply 'working' the joystick's stick back and forth and left and right about 20-50 times will 'clean' the pots (it forces the pot's internal wipers over the internal resistor pad.) If that doesn't fix it, you would have to turn off the computer, disconnect the joystick from the computer, disassemble the joystick (some screws might be hidden under stickers and/or grip pads), and spray a little bit of WD-40 into each pot by it's stem, then work the stick, remove/wipe off excess WD-40, and re-assemble the joystick.
You could also have a bad joystick cord or an intermittent cord. Check the cord visually to see if it has been pinched really bad. If the joysticks cord has been pinched or crimped badly (like a chair's leg sat on it) it might be that some of the cord's the internal wires broken or are getting ready to break, thus the intermittent or erratic behavior, look for bad pinched places, see the bottom of this paragraph on how to test for intermittent problems. A lot of times cords start to go bad where they enter or exit cases. The electronics in your joystick or your sound card or motherboard could be acting up or over heating, is it Summer time there, is the room hot? You could also have electrically dirty connectors on the cord's connector or the jack of the computers gameport connector. Turn off the computer, stick the joystick's cord's connector in a plastic bag and spray it with a 'light' blast of WD-40 (do not 'soak it). Shake/wipe off the excess WD-40 and plug the connecter in the jack about 20 times. Don't get WD-40 all over the place especially not on the floor as it is slippery as all. While WD-40 is not conductive usually, it does attract dirt and dust which is conductive, that is why you try to use it only on the actual pins of the connectors. You could have a bad solder joint or a bad intermittent electrical connection on the cord or in the joystick. If you still can't find it, test the joystick using the Windows Game Controller tests (see the Testing and Calibrating Joystick section above) test it by moving the stick and holding it in one axes (one direction) at a time, while another person LIGHTLY taps the case then LIGHTLY twists and shakes the cord, look for changes, in the Windows Game Controller test's display for the stick as they tap and twist on the joystick and it's cord.
One button does not work when pushed, everything else works ok:
If the switch seems to 'push' and 'feel' like the other buttons, more than likely this is caused by a 'dirty' (electrically dirty) contact inside that button's switch. Spray just a little bit of WD-40 into where the button is at (it is best to take the joystick a part and to spray it directly into the switch. Most joysticks use little plastic 'pushers' that intern press the internally hidden electrical switches, you want to clean the switch not the pusher. Sometimes a switch problem is caused by the mechanical 'pusher' sticking or binding on the sides against the joystick's case. If you have this problem just give it a little shot of WD-40 and wipe off the excess.
If the switch 'feels funny' when you push it and there is no 'click' like the other switches, and you already made sure it's not the 'pusher' sticking, the switch is probably broke. Try cleaning it first just incase though. You played games until you wore out that switch 'killing monsters' ;-). The work around is to just not use that button in the game. You could fix the bad switch by replacing it, -if- you have access to a solder iron and solder, a screwdriver, and are near by a Radio Shack Electronic Part's Store. You would have to turn off and unplug the power to the computer, disconnect the joystick from the computer, disassemble the joystick (some screws might be hidden under stickers and grip pads), take the switch out, take it to the store and they might be able to match up or order a replacement momentary push switch (or some substitute) that might work for 3-4$. If you or a friend have an another old broke joystick, you might be able to scavenge a button from it. Don't spend 50$ buying tools and parts to fix a 40$ old used joystick though, buy a new 40$ auto-calibrating digital USB joystick.
Without moving the joystick's stick you are moving in a direction or in circles:
There are 2 types of 'centering problems' with joysticks. One is a 'joystick mechanically centering problem' the other is a 'joystick software centering problems'. If your joystick's stick just doesn't return to the center point of it's movement automatically, it probably has a return-spring problem, see the 'Joystick Mechanical Centering Test' below. If joystick seems to be physically centering ok, but without pushing any buttons you start moving in a direction in a game, you probably need to do a joystick calibration (see the Calibrating and Testing Joystick section above) or you need to increase the joystick's 'deadzone' setting. If you move in only one direction, that means you have one axis messed up, if you are stuck going in circles in the game you have 2 or more axes messed up. If the joystick works ok right after a calibration, but then after you play for 30 minutes or and hour you start to take off in a direction with the joystick mechanically centered, what is happening is the joystick's electronics' are heating up and causing this to happen, the fix for this is to increase the joystick's 'deadzone' setting a little until it stops. You may (or may not) have access to a way to increase the 'deadzone' setting of the joystick in Window's 'Game Controller'/'Properties' menu, if so adjust the deadzone setting there you may need to increase the joystick's deadzone setting in the game, or you may need to increase the deadzone setting in both places.
If the joystick hasn't been calibrated in a very long time (like a year), its gotten really cold or really hot since you last calibrated your joystick, you have swapped out joysticks, simply try re-calibrating first before you go messing with deadzone settings. However, if your joystick needs calibration every week or every 2 hours or else you develop the 'moving in a direction without touching the stick problem', it would then be best to try increasing your 'deadzone' settings, increase the setting a little bit at a time then play the game for a while to see if the problem is fixed and keep tweaking it up until it works.
If the joystick's stick seems to have a problem with it's stick physically NOT returning to the mechanical center position every time or not at all, you probably have a spring related problem. 'Joystick Mechanical Centering Test':
To test if the joystick has a mechanical centering problem:
1. Jiggle the stick of the joystick and yet go of it, so it physically re-centers itself like it is supposed to.
2. Set your joystick on a flat surface like a table top, bracing your elbow on the table, hold a finger just above an imaginary reference point over the very top of your joystick's stick without touching the joystick with that finger. Now don't move that finger.
3. Now with the 2nd hand, move the joystick's stick to the extreme of one axis.
4. Now let go of the stick with the second hand.
5. The joystick's internal springs mechanisms should return the joystick to it's mechanical center automatically.
6. Check that the stick returns to its center within about a 1/4 of an inch (6-7mm) or so of your reference.
7. Repeat this test for the other axis of your joystick (if you have a 3D joystick test that the twist re-centers in both direction too).
If the joystick is working properly it's stick should physically re-center itself within ABOUT a 1/4 of an inch (6-7mm) or so. Most joysticks will have 2-3 inches of total travel in each direction from it's mechanical centering position to the extreme of each axis (4-6 inches for full travel over the complete front-back or left-right travel). If the joystick is 'floppy' that probably means an internal spring has broken, worn out, come loose or broken loose. You could turn off the computer, unplug the joystick, and disassemble it, figure out how the centering spring mechanism is supposed to work, figure out what broke and fix it. Some joysticks use 4 metal springs, while others use 2 springs and special stops designed to re-center the stick, some use rubber centering devices instead of metal springs. You used to be able to get 'rebuild kits' for some of old expensive +100$ joysticks for like 15-20$ plus 7$ shipping and when joysticks used to cost +100$ and were made of metal this made sense, but for a 40$ digital self calibrating USB joysticks it doesn't any longer, usually you just buy new joystick for 40$ if it's not something simple to fix.
If you are low on cash and have a mechanical centering problem on your joystick and can't afford to buy a new joystick, a 'work-a-round' for the centering problem is to simply increase the deadzone settings and simply get used to holding the joystick centered to stop moving in games. I have heard of others putting 4 screws on the outside of the joystick case and using rubber bands wrapped around the stick to re-center it.
Well i think we have a LOT covered here, feedback and suggestions are welcome, hope this helps you fix your joystick problems

Youtube Logitech Extreme 3d Pro Manual

Last edited by CrapHand (2007-07-23 21:14:37)

i am trying to buy a joystick like that one but i keep hearing about how this one doesn't work after 6 months. How long did you had that joystick and have you ever had the same problems like the rest..about rolling to the left?

Last edited by DemonAlucard (2007-07-19 21:42:06)

+1 for the effort A tip: You should have the afterburner and flare button on the stick itself, too. It is much quicker to find and trigger than on the base of the joystick.
I just read your name. I think I have played with you on Ghost Town A2G IO.

Last edited by nukchebi0 (2007-07-19 21:44:35)

Actually i set the afterburner and flare to those keys because i like to have the joystick by my legs when i use it, right hand on the handle and left hand grabbing the base just where the buttons are. So they're really close to my left hand with no problems and i feel the joystick more confortable that way
nukchebi0, i play a LOT on A2G Ghost Town I/O, you are right, hehehe.

Last edited by CrapHand (2007-07-19 21:52:15)

Oh, I leave it on the desk, so my config works much better. I guess the location is key. a link would be awesome, because thats what happened to mine. ive tried cleaning and the method of cali above to no avail The Z axis is a bit too sensitive on the logitech extreme 3d pro IMO.
Other than that it's a very confortable joystick.
+1 for the guide
PS: You should set one of your joystick buttons to 'Enemy spotted'. It's very useful to find the enemy jet when it goes out of sight.
http://forums.bf2s.com/viewtopic.php?pid=799612

Last edited by Bidasse_Jason (2007-07-23 05:29:09)

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